If you find yourself in Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of Congo, or in Kinshasa, the capital of the Democratic Republic of Congo (yes, yes, those are two different states), you won’t have a chance to miss Sapeurs
Members of a unique subculture called La Sape stand in stark contrast to the
with the surrounding rubble
They wear only elegant and fashionable clothes of famous brands: fashionable suits by Yves Saint Laurent, eye-catching ties by Versace, fancy glasses by Prada and Weston shoes polished to a shine, attracting admiring looks of others
They wear only elegant and fashionable clothes of famous brands: fashionable suits by Yves Saint Laurent, eye-catching ties by Versace, fancy glasses by Prada and Weston shoes polished to a shine, attracting admiring looks of others
The abbreviation SAPE (Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes) translates as "Community of advanced and elegant people," and "sappers" (les sapeurs) try to match this title by 100%
But these fashionistas are not rich people or gangsters. They are cab drivers, salesmen, farmers, and electricians who have decided to devote their lives to an extravagant hobby.
They keep their expensive suits and shoes right in the middle of the mud huts, and they fill sacks with their fashionable ties and plaids
They keep their expensive suits and shoes right in the middle of the mud huts, and they fill sacks with their fashionable ties and plaids
An unusual subculture emerged in the 1920s, after World War I. The Congolese who had fought under the flags of their colonial masters, England and Belgium, returned home wearing European clothes, which were associated with wealth and chic by their compatriots
An unusual subculture emerged in the 1920s, after World War I. The Congolese who had fought under the flags of their colonial masters, England and Belgium, returned home wearing European clothes, which were associated with wealth and chic by their compatriots
The colonizers of that era often preferred not to pay their black servants, forcing them to be satisfied only with food, lodging, and the shirts of the Bara's shoulder
After World War II, Congolese soldiers came back to their homeland with trophies: shabby, but branded suits and boots
The tradition that emerged at that time of getting together on weekends and showing each other the outfits they had brought has survived to this day
Society members gather in bars, greet each other by touching their foreheads, performing intricate dances, and showing off their outfits to the assembled
Each of the «sappers» tries to develop his own way of moving and talking, special gestures and facial expressions
The pocket scarf must harmonize with the shirt, and it is just as important as the other accessories: tie, watch, belt, suspenders, cane, cigar, sunglasses, scarf, bright socks and hat
Fakes are despised by the «sappers»: only real, branded items are valued. They also say, "There's nothing more horrible than wearing the same suit as someone else. What a soccer team!"
In Brazzaville it is not customary to combine more than three shades in an outfit,
but in Kinshasa, the fashionistas are much bolder. Each color in clothing has a meaning: red means belligerence, white means peace, blue means temptation, and purple means spirituality
The «sappers» outfit, according to his words, emphasizes not social status, but internal freedom of a person, not surrendering under the pressure of external circumstances
In Brazzaville it is not customary to combine more than three shades in an outfit, but in Kinshasa, the fashionistas are much bolder. Each color in clothing has a meaning: red means belligerence, white means peace, blue means temptation, and purple means spirituality
Члены общества собираются в барах, приветствуют друг друга, касаясь лбами, исполняют затейливые танцы и демонстрируют собравшимся свои наряды
Society members gather in bars, greet each other by touching their foreheads, performing intricate dances, and showing off their outfits to the assembled
Each of the «sappers» tries to develop his own way of moving and talking, special gestures and facial expressions
The pocket scarf must harmonize with the shirt, and it is just as important as the other accessories: tie, watch, belt, suspenders, cane, cigar, sunglasses, scarf, bright socks and hat
Fakes are despised by the «sappers»: only real, branded items are valued. They also say, «There's nothing more horrible than wearing the same suit as someone else. What a soccer team!»
В Браззавиле не принято сочетать больше трех оттенков в наряде,
а вот в Киншасе модники гораздо смелее. Каждый цвет в одежде имеет смысл: красный означает воинственность, белый — мир, синий — искушение, фиолетовый — духовность.
The «sappers» outfit, according to his words, emphasizes not social status, but internal freedom of a person, not surrendering under the pressure of external circumstances
In Brazzaville it is not customary to combine more than three shades in an outfit, but in Kinshasa, the fashionistas are much bolder. Each color in clothing has a meaning: red means belligerence, white means peace, blue means temptation, and purple means spirituality
Society members gather in bars, greet each other by touching their foreheads, performing intricate dances, and showing off their outfits to the assembled
But the main principle
of African dandies —
ненасилие
Но главный
денди —
принцип
африканских
is nonviolence
But the main
of African
nonviolence
principle
dandies —
In both Congo, since the 1960s and until today, interracial conflicts have continued unabated, leading to death and destruction. And the flamboyant clothing of La Sape members is a way of showing their disagreement with the catastrophic situation in a country where half of the Congolese live below the poverty line
«The Gentlemen from the Congo» could not be destroyed by civil wars, nor by devastation and total poverty. Protest has accompanied the entire history of the movement. The «Sappers» were persecuted until the 1990s, when public life became freer
In both Congo, since the 1960s and until today, interracial conflicts have continued unabated, leading to death and destruction. And the flamboyant clothing of La Sape members is a way of showing their disagreement with the catastrophic situation in a country where half of the Congolese live below the poverty line
«The Gentlemen from the Congo» could not be destroyed by civil wars, nor by devastation and total poverty. Protest has accompanied the entire history of the movement. The «Sappers» were persecuted until the 1990s, when public life became freer
African dandies turned dandyism into an art that gave their exhausting physical labor a higher meaning, a kind of religion,
that unites people around itself and gives them hope and courage to look to the future
The extravagance and lifestyle of the "sappers" inspire musicians, photographers, filmmakers and stylists around the world: African dandies starred in Solange Knowles' music video, a Guinness commercial and their own documentary, and British fashion designer Paul Smith created a collection dedicated to fashionistas from the Congo
Экстравагантность и стиль жизни «сапёров» вдохновляют музыкантов, фотографов, кинематографистов и стилистов всего мира: африканские денди снялись в клипе Соланж Ноулз, в рекламе Guinness и их же документальном фильме, а британский модельер Пол Смит создал коллекцию, посвящённую модникам из Конго
Today the dandy movement is part of cultural heritage
And those «sappers» who were able to fulfill their dream and moved to Europe continue to live the La Sape lifestyle there as well
The state supports La Sape's participation in public events
